Glorantha Midgard

Next weekend we'll be going to Joy of Six show to stage a Glorantha game of Midgard.
This was my suggestion, however I've been very lax at getting models painted. Fortunately Matt is much more disciplined and enthusiastic than I and so has panted up two (very large) forces.
I'll have some to add (if I get my finger out) and James is preparing some Walls of Pavis for the game.
However we thought we'd have a bit of a practice to get a feel for which units we'll use at the event.

In the end we just threw pretty much everything on the table and muddled through. I took the Lunars, Martin took the Orlanthi and Matt thumbed through the rules and made helpful decisions about unit stats.

Both forces lined up - this is way bigger than we'll play with at Joy Of Six, but we wanted to get "all the toys" on the table.

We'll also have a nicer mat on the day, and some bespoke Glorantha scenery.

The Orlanth forces had some small palisades to deend.

The Lunars bought their dinosaurs.

Bid blocks of Lunar spearmen with skirmishers to the fore.

The Orlanth forces held steady.

First cash happened on the lunar left, spirit cavalry thundered in to the Lunar horse.

The Lunar centre pushed up

Their Chaos allies on the right hit home.

Orlanth cavalry was making short work of the Lunars, despite the presence of dinosaurs.

Battle was joined across the field.

The Telmori pushed back the Lunar phalanx.

Casualties were mounting for the Lunar commander.

And the skirmishers were proving difficult to shift from the village.

Bloody fighting was the order of the day.

The dinosaurs had proved no match fo Orlanthi courage.

A Storm Lord summoned the wind to bear him aloft.

And his presence fortified the Telmori

Casualties littered the ground and both forces were running out of Reputation.

In the end it was the Lunar morale that collapsed ans the followers of the Storm god could claim the victory.

Great game that, despite the number of units still played quickly and easily.

Our game on Sunday will be smaller, to give more people chance to take part  and will also feature Trolls and Praxian nomads (if I get on with painting!).

Do come and join in and throw some dice if you're in the area.

Lord of the Rings Ruins

Some ruins from the original Games Workshop Lord of the Rings game box.

Simple drybrush paintjob. No idea why it's taken me over 20 years to get them painted.

Midgard Stamina Markers

Made some more of these for my Midgard games.

Some doubles as I tend to go through the singles quite rapidly!

And a test one for my El Cid forces.

Painting Warmaster Fell Bats Step by Step

As I've been "speed painting" some Warmaster Vampire Counts models I thought I might do a step by step to show the process I go through.

This is intended to be a way of getting units painted quickly but effectively. It's not how I paint *all* my Warmaster armies, or even all the units in this army but it is pretty quick and looks good at a tabletop distance. With a horde type army like the Vampire Counts a speed painting aproach may be what you need to get it finished.

I'll be using Fell Bats models, sculpted by Forest Dragon and available from White Dragon Miniatures.

So first, clean up the models and then glue both strips, yes, that's right both strips on to the base.

At this point people will be saying, "that's madness, how will you paint the models when you can't get your brush in the gap between them?"" The answer is that we won't be doing that. I think it was Graham Davey in a White Dwarf article at the time Warmaster launched who pointed out that if you can't get your brush in there you're not going to be able to see it at 10mm scale when it's on the table, so don't even bother trying to paint it. Will this make the perfectionist miniature painter in you twitch? Yes, but we're after speed, not perfection here.

Next, apply sand. 

Apply PVA, dip in sand, leave to dry.

Then spray black.

Bog standard black primer spray over the whole model - they're mostly black so that's the best colour to use, also you need it dark to hide the bits you can't paint in the middle.

Then paint the base brown.

You could try and do this at the end, but then you risk getting the basing colour on the bits you've painted - so best done first.

Next up, drybrushing. A reasonably heavy drybrush of a dark bluey grey (I used the long OOP Fenris Grey from GW)

Then paint the metal railings bits - I used Leadbelcher I think.

 

Next up apply a mid grey in an overbrushing style on the stonework (more OOP Paint -  Adeptus Battle Grey)

Then a final drybrush of a light grey on the stone  (OOP Astronomivan Grey)

Paint the tree stumps with browns

Then, to finish cover the whole lot (apart from the base), with a black wash (Nuln Oil)

Then drybrush the base to taste (I used Vomit Brown followed by a Bone colour)

Add static grass

Job done. Drying times (for the wash and the basing materials) were probably the longest bit of the whole process.